Repair to damaged wood.
With the sanding completed it is now time to repair the damaged wood. In this picture there is crushed wood in the window frame, top left corner. There is also a gouged out section where the wood is missing and damaged.

Clearing out the crushed and damaged wood, I then sanded appropriate edges and angles into the spaces so new wood could be glued into place. There are several spots around the door that needed repairs similar to this.

Final repairs, then primer!
This was a fairly noticeable spot by the doorknob where big gouges were in the wood, Check out picture number 10 on the previous page to compare. I sanded to gouges into round shapes so sections of dowels could be used to repair the wood.

The inside of the door receives its first coat of primer!

Primering and filling.
The outside of the door now receives its first coat of primer.

With the primer dry, the door is examined for flaws. The primer makes most flaws stand out, but it is easy to lose track of them. Going around with a pencil and marking the areas in need of filling is one way to make sure most flaws are caught.

Marking and filling the flawed areas.
This is another example of a found flaw that has been marked by pencil.

In this picture the marked areas have been filled in with spackling paste. To get good adhesion I have thinned the paste with water because when the paste is too thick it can detach from the surface during sanding.

Block sanding out the filled areas.
All those areas that were marked and filled with spackle now need to be gone over with the block sander.

Here is a close up of a filled area at the junction of crossed panels. There were gaps and height differences in the separate wood pieces, now smoothed out with the filler and the sandpaper.

The home stretch, gloss paint applied and starting hardware restoration.
The first coat of gloss white enamel paint is applied to the inside of the door. There will be two coats of each color of enamel paint. The white paint is very picky about being brushed over once it is on. You have one go at it . . . and if you try to go over an area again, the first paint layer applied starts to pull up. This happens even to a coat that was just applied a few minutes earlier, not a nice behavior to work with.

Paint removal has started on the door hardware. The same chemical remover is used to clear away the stubborn layers of old paint from the metal. Look at the doorknobs here, they have layered stripes of old paint and dirt mashed into the recesses.

Hardware before and after.
The door plates are finished with the chemical paint remover, the hinge pins are now undergoing the treatment. No sandpaper can be used on the metal, the softened paint was removed with the toothbrush seen in the previous photo.

The hinge pins are undergoing a second chemical treatment here. The smaller inside door plate has been buffed out with a fine polishing paste and looking good! Most of the shiny is really coming out now, although some of the dark color in the beaded border will only come out with an ultrasonic bath . . . not something I have access to!

Cleaned and polished hardware.
Most of the metal cleaned up nice and the display pieces are looking really pretty.

Close up of the doorknobs and hinge pins. Only one of the hinge pin balls shined up, the other remains rather dull. I want to leave these in natural metal and not paint them. The door knobs are looking good!

Gloss Leather Brown Enamel for the outside of the door.
The brown enamel goes on by brush in the recessed and detail areas first. The brown is much more forgiving than the white, recoating wet paint was no problem with the brown. The roller is for the larger flat areas.

The bottom of the door after its first coat of brown. It turns out that this time the roller was giving me problems. While it laid down the paint with excellent coverage, it also but hundreds of tiny air bubbles into the paint. The bubbles would not pop on their own, so the now pimply door had to be gone over with a brush to remove the bubbles. Whew!

The lower door frame hinge.
The lower door frame hinge is undergoing chemical treatment to remove old white paint. The lower door frame hinge after cleaning and buffing.

The lower and upper door frame hinges.
Now that the lower door frame hinge is cleaned up it is reinstalled.

Both door frame hinges needed chemical remover to get the paint out of the screws so they could be removed. Look at the paint drip forming a spire on the lower ball tip, I actually though the the metal was shaped that way until I cleaned the lower hinge.

Cleaning the upper door frame hinge.
This is a great example of what happens when chemical paint remover is applied. This is the before image . . .

This is the after image. Seeing how the chemical remover works has opened my eyes to the many things it can be used on. There are cabinets all over the house whose doors are misaligned. The hinges have been painted over so often that the hardware looks like fancy bumps with no way to get the screws out. This stuff is the cure for that problem.

Continue To Next Page

Return Home