Checking out the new window.
The outer packaging for the window was well labeled and had instructions for how to properly open the parcel.

The packing of the window for shipping was excellent. The glass was padded on all six sides with foam and the thin edges were framed with strong wood. The tempered glass is frosted with the artwork on one side. The dimension measurements are exactly as ordered, so I am very pleased with the glass.

Starting on the outside window border frame.
The painted wood on the left is the only remaining part of the original outer window frame from the front door. The moulding was a custom design from the door makers, a shape not found today. For replacement I will use 1/2 inch quarter-round moulding, simple and it blends well into the door design.

The quarter-round lengths are cut to the window size using a 45° angle cut on the ends. This allows the four frame parts to match up at the corners.

Preparing the frame wood.
Here is a close up of the frame wood corner cuts, now the frame is ready for painting.

The wood will be painted with a primer coat under gloss enamel. This primer is different than what I used when restoring the door, the door primer would not sand properly. Brush-on sandable primer is rare apparently, most primers nowadays are not sandable at all. This defeats one of the main purposes for using a primer base, to expose and help eliminate defects on the surface being painted.

Primer paint and glazing putty.
The reason this primer is sandable is on the ingredients list. The calcium carbonate makes up about 30% of the dry solids in the primer, allowing the sandpaper to wear down the primer surface into fine powder. This powder does not clog up sandpaper, and yields a smooth surface that visually highlights surface defects. Those defects can then be fill with glazing putty and sanded to match the proper contours.

Sometimes you don't need the primer paint to spot defects in the surface of the wood. Here was a gouge in the wood so obvious that I filled it with glazing putty before starting the primer paint. When it dries I will sand it smooth with a piece of 100 grit sandpaper.

First stages of the window frame painting.
Each of the four frame sides were painted one end at a time a little past the halfway mark, I needed to hold onto the other end with my hand to keep the parts steady. Two full coats of primer were applied, sanded smooth after each coat. This filled the wood grain and made the outer surfaces quite smooth.

The first coat of brown enamel paint has been applied, the color matches the rest of the outer side of the front door. The white primer and the brown outer coats are applied to all three sides and the ends of the frame wood. This keeps the wood from attempting to warp during the wet and dry weather seasons.

The window frame needs many coats of paint.
This is what the frame sections look like after a single coat of brown paint. The paint needs to go on in thin smooth coats, too thin to cover the white primer in a single application. The buildup of paint layers will go on for several days until the surfaces look right.

The frame is nearing completion and is looking uniformly brown.

Preparing for the window installation.
Here is how the frame corners look after the painting is completed, any white you see in the pictures is actually reflected light.

These little metal devices are glazing point centers. They help to hold the window centered in the frame

Using the glazing point centers.
One at a time the glazing point centers are lightly hammered into the frame, then the window is fitted to the frame. The point centers are driven only far enough into the frame to hold the window perfectly centered.

With the window fitted, you can see how the glazing point centers are positioned so that the edge of the glass is evenly touching all three.

Final preparations for the window.
There are three glazing point centers each for the top and bottom of the frame. This allows the glass to be evenly set with equal space for the window caulking on the top and bottom. The left and right sides were so closely fitted they did not need glazing point centers.

With everything now pre-fitted, it is time to apply the window caulking to the inside part of the window frame. The white caulking will go all the way around and be in contact with the inner side of the window.

Cleaning up the dark edge.
With the window set in place and pressed into the inner frame caulk bead just laid down, more caulking is applied around the edges to fill the gaps.

Small holes were drilled into the frame wood to hold finishing nails. The holes were drilled at the correct angle so the nails would bite into the door wood and stay clear of the glass. A new bead of caulk was laid down on the outside of the glass where the frame side is to be attached.

Installing the outside frame over the window.
Three finishing nails are used to hold the short frame sides, four nails are used for the long sides. Here the bottom frame part is ready to be nailed into position.

On the bottom frame I put in a little too much caulking, the excess had to be wiped off. When everything is dry the nail holes will be filled with putty then painted over. The second frame side is now being prepared for attachment.

The window is in!
All four outer frame sides have now been nailed in place over the caulking glue. The window needs to sit horizontal for at least an hour before the door is rehung, in order to let the caulking glue set.

The front door is back on its hinges. Wow, that lets in a lot more light!

The front door window, inside and outside.
The frosted side of the glass was installed on the inside, I felt that was the best way to keep the frosted glass from being accidentally scratched.

These pictures were taken near dusk on the day the window was installed, which actually shows off the window itself quite nicely. There is still some tidying up work to do on the caulking and the small paint retouchings, those are things that can wait for a warmer day. Meanwhile, I think the door looks much better with a real window!


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